India’s Kumbh Mela, the biggest event of its kind in this part of the world, involving
hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, began on Monday in the northern city of Allahabad.
Watched by massed groups of pilgrims lining the roads, 13 Naga sadhu sects walked
to the confluence of the Ganga, the Jamuna and the mythical Saraswati river, there
to have an imperial bath. It was and will be, for the next two months while the Kumbh
Mela is on, a curious blend of austerity and opulence. The sadhus are usually naked
or covered in ash, sometimes wearing a loin cloth. But they are led and accompanied
by chariots richly decorated, prancing horses and even elephants, marching to the
sound of ornate bands.
This is easily the biggest gathering of Hindus at one
place and takes place once every 12 years. Hindus believe that a dip in the holy river
at this time cleanses them from their sins and releases them from the karmic cycle
of death and rebirth. It is also a mind-boggling exercise in logistics and peace-keeping.
More
than 7000 personnel from the central paramilitary forces, the Rapid Action Force and
the national Disaster Response Force have been pressed into service, according to
television channels quoting the local inspector general of police. This is because
of the huge turnout of people expected, nearly ten per cent higher than the last one.
When it is all over in mid-March, 100 million pilgrims will have taken a dip in Mother
Ganga. On special auspicious dates, including February 10 and February 15, there will
be 30 million and 19 million devotees respectively in the city at one time.
The
authorities have pressed the maximum number of security into service due to heightened
fear of terrorist acts at particularly crowded venues, so there is tremendous pressure
upon both them and the administrative services.
In Allahabad, the pressure
has been building up since Sunday evening, complicated by the extreme cold front and
the banning of vehicular traffic on most of the city roads. Bathers have been walking
long distances to reach the banks of the river, where bathing is carried out at designated
spots within strict time frames.
This year, no less a personality than the
Dalai Lama is expected to attend, as is Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, guru of the internationally
known Art of Living programme. But as always, it is the common devotee who will be
the star.