Mexico: Always faithful

Last minute preparations are going on in Leon’s Bicentennial Park for an open air papal Mass on Sunday –one of the highlights of Pope Benedict’s pastoral visit to Mexico. It’s an event for which the city has been preparing for months, as Philippa Hitchen found out when she went to take a look around the site on Saturday: Listen (Photo : Faithful arrive at Bicentennial park 1 day ahead of Mass)

The park is a collection of large white pavilions and exhibition spaces with a giant flag pole built a couple of years ago to mark the 200th anniversary of Mexico’s independence. It lies in a natural valley surrounded by dusty desert hills, including El Cubilete with its shrine and 60 foot high statue of Christ the King looking out over the whole region. For the Pope’s visit a strikingly simple, white covered stage has been put up in the park with the shape of the cross cut out behind the altar, next to an image of the omnipresent Our Lady of Guadalupe where the Pope will stop for a few moments of silent prayer at the end of the Mass. During my visit, the altar was being carefully assembled, with beautiful silver and blue enamelled panels set into the white wooden frame. In a box behind the stage I spotted a couple of colourful handmade sombreros with a picture of the Pope and a map of Mexico on the brim.

For the 350.000 people with tickets to attend the Mass, every possible precaution has been taken to guarantee their safety and wellbeing. Soldiers and security forces kept a discreet but watchful eye as pilgrims began gathering with sleeping bags on Saturday to secure the best view for the following morning. Temperatures soar here during the day so a fleet of ambulances has been drafted in with Red Cross workers and a mobile hospital ready to help those suffering the effects of the hot, dry climate.

Despite the presence of a group of protesters I spotted camped out near the entrance to the park at a Church belonging to a new Protestant community called ‘Light of the World’ – a remainder of the inroads that such Evangelical groups have made into this traditionally Catholic country – authorities and local people in Leon are determined to provide an unforgettable experience for the Pope. Though he is only spending two days here, they’re out to prove that the Mexican Church is living up to the label ‘Siempre fiel’ ‘Always faithful’ that Pope John Paul coined during one of his five visits to the country - a slogan that I’ve seen emblazoned on posters, hats, T-shirts and billboards all over the city.