“Why a train?”. That really was the question. As soon as the tall Central American
Cardinal appeared in our carriage - to the bewilderment of the journalists leaning
out of vintage train windows like school children, or wiping soot from camera lenses
– that was the question we all really wanted to ask. But Cardinal Óscar Andrés
Rodríguez Maradiaga got there before us.
Sitting on a wooden seat in carriage
number 7, the penultimate on the Caritas Express expect for the 1930’s postal car
- complete with hessian sacks – the President of Caritas Internationalis was far from
the plush velvet of the parlour carriage , the same one used by past Popes, most famously
Pope John XXIII on his historic 1962 trip to Assisi. But he seemed rather comfortable,
chatting in various languages as the 1915 steam engine puffed its way through the
rolling Italian countryside.
Between one tunnel and the next – and despite
the constant fog of coal smoke that invaded the train - he explained why Caritas had
decided on an train journey to mark its 60th anniversary and lead into
its 19th General Assembly: “because the train is the union of many efforts,
not only the rails but the wagons one after another, it’s a symbol of how love of
God can become love of neighbour, and now our train in Caritas has 165 wagons, it
means 165 nations that are united in forming the big Caritas Confederation”.
Or
, in reality, of a steam locomotive and seven carriages all carefully and lovingly
preserved by the Ferrovie dello Stato – the Italian State Railway System.
even down to the washroom fixtures. One chief steam engine driver and two engine
stokers in period uniforms complete with caps and neck scarves, were already feeding
its huge furnace with coal Saturday morning at 8am when passengers began lining the
Papal platform of the Vatican Railway Station.
The station itself is situated
beneath the giant red brick and granite walls that delineate the border between Vatican
City State and Italy. Opened in 1934 by Paul VI, it is a masterpiece of pre-war architecture,
complete with fountains, mosaics and an impressive chandelier. But the relationship
between the Popes and the railway, stretches further back to before the Lateran Treaty
of 1929, when Rome was part of the Papal States and the Popes were at the forefront
in the construction of railway lines, connecting towns and cities from Italy’s West
to Italy’s East, like Frascati, Civitavecchia, Velletri, Ancona and Bologna.
Today
the Vatican still uses its tiny 300 metres of train track for rolling stock trains
– carrying goods into the small city state. The Caritas initiative however, marked
the first time passengers have replaced freight since Benedict XVI was elected Pope
and the excitement was palpable. Vatican police struggled to keep children, their
parents, ambassadors, bishops and priests back from the tracks as the train drivers
pulled pistons and heaved coal. As the allotted hour grew closer – 10 am – the giant
iron doors groaned open across the frontier tunnel and the engine driver and stokers
descended from the train dropping to one knee as they and the train were blessed.
Then all clambered on board and to the hissing of steam and tooting of whistle, the
Caritas Express was off, exploding through the walls of Vatican City State.
“People
think of Caritas primarily in terms of emergency intervention”, Cardinal Maradiaga
reflected as the train puffed toward its final destination, “but we are so much more,
our mandate goes far beyond immediate help in disaster situations, we are there for
the long term and this means a fundamental commitment to the Church’s social teaching
which is, perhaps, the best kept secret!”
At 12.13 pm on a sunny May Saturday
afternoon, a train with a load drawn from all four corners of the Church and of the
world drew into Orvieto a medieval hill top town in Umbria where, to the delight of
the locals and a proud and coal covered engine driver, the whistle announced that
the Caritas Express had arrived -- ahead of time -- and full of expectation.
The
Caritas Internationalis General Assembly runs from 22 to 27 May in Rome. Listen: